Eat Streets – July
Words: Liam Barker
Forget the ubiquitous smashed avocado on toast. Koya has a brand new reason to breakfast like a king. Its signature is an ‘English breakfast’ udon; think an earthy broth containing a crispy fried egg, bacon and shiitake mushrooms along with wonderful hand-stretched udon noodles. Looks so wrong, tastes so right. There is also, of course, plenty of choice on the classic udon menu. Be sure to check out the kinoko, which comes with mushrooms and a walnut miso. Even better, all produce for the restaurant is sourced from farmers across the UK, meaning both that Koya supports independents and its produce is sustainably sourced. Win-win. Who knew we were so good at growing Japanese vegetables here?
10-12 Bloomberg Arcade, EC4N 8AR
The team behind Leroy has pedigree. While Hackney’s Michelin-starred Ellory closed its doors a few months back, its spirit lives on here in Leroy’s simple seasonal menu. When we say simple, we mean bare bones descriptions; diners can expect to order the fuss-free likes of ‘a plate of smoked trout’, or ‘mussels and tomatoes on toast’. Order the whole mackerel cut in half straight down the middle: genius. Sharing plates are the order of the day here and since Leroy is also a wine bar, it’s a great place to catch up with friends.
18 Phipp Street, EC2A 4NU
What used to be the old Coach and Horses pub in Clerkenwell is now just ‘The Coach’ and, instantly, it’s just cooler. The old pub has been given a complete makeover with giant floor-to-ceiling windows, plus there’s the chef behind it all. Henry Harris has been responsible for some of London’s best French food over the last decade and The Coach is a continuation of that legacy. The menu is Anglo/French classic (think beef tartare and confit duck leg). Don’t miss the grilled rabbit leg with mustard sauce and smoked bacon – guarranteed to conjure up food envy on your Insta feed – and finish with creme and caramel. This is just good cooking with no gimmicks.
26-28 Ray Street, EC1R 3DJ;
Now I don’t want to build up your hopes, but Nuala is kind of like the latest Avengers movie. There are a lot of big names and ideas here. In the kitchen there are chefs from Chiltern Firehouse and The Fat Duck. The front of house is run by ex-Noma staff. And a vast open kitchen is organised around a giant fire pit that is not only responsible for roasting whole cuts of meat, but also some pretty mean veg dishes too. One such is the fireplace pumpkin with Isle of Mull cheddar. (Side note: whoever would have thought of roasting cockles on an open flame?) There’s some great innovation happening at Nuala, and best of all it’s all around fantastic British produce. The question remains though: can too many cooks spoil the broth? I’ll leave that one for you to decide.
70-74 City Road, EC1Y 2BJ